Beer Run
Matt Simpson
Managing Editor
Have you ever been dragged along for
a trip on which you really didn’t want to go? Well,
that’s how this beer run started. My girlfriend’s brother
and their family live in Dallas and she had some business
there. “I’d really like you to go with me for the weekend.”
She said. “They’ve been asking for you for some time
now.” Ok…I’ll go. She was paying for the trip, after
all.
So I canceled my home improvements
scheduled for the weekend and flew with her to Dallas.
Since she works for Delta we flew first-class, which
set the tone for the rest of the trip. It was a relaxing
trip. Which, by the by, is why no pictures accompany
this article. I didn’t bring my camera. Gimme a break…I
knew I’d only be there for a day-and-a-half.
My only demands were that I sample
the wares of the best beer-stores and bars in the area.
Given that we really didn’t have anything else planned,
it made my wishes much easier to abide. That Saturday,
we hit the road as one big, happy family, appeasing
Matt’s eccentric need to beer-hunt.
Having done my homework, we first hit
the World Market. Unimpressive. Now, I know we have
World Market here in Atlanta, and don’t misunderstand…I
love the place. The wine selection rivals that of many
package stores, with better prices. And their kitschy
selection of home furnishings, housewares and gourmet
foods is unparalleled. But I really was expecting their
beer selection to be significantly better than what
I find at my local branch. It wasn’t.
Aside from a few solid Belgian selections;
Chimay, some Unibrou, etc.,they had nary a world-class
beer. At least not the high-gravity stuff for which
I was craving. The collection seemed almost boring…Sierra
Nevada (no Bigfoot, but in all fairness, it had sold
out all over town almost a month before,) some Samuel
Smith varieties (no Imperial Stout,) Young’s (no Old
Nick,) etc. They did seem to have quite a few local
micros, but nothing with an ABV over 6%. I’m outa there.
Our next stop was the grassy knoll.
Yes…the Grassy Knoll. Andy, our driver,
was gracious enough to drive us right over history.
And while you may remember the grainey, black and white
McGruder film, let me tell you that it’s a much smaller
area in person. The book depository has been renovated,
the road repaved and the grassy knoll is as green as
a stout is thick. I so couldn’t help thinking about
Kennedy and history, that I made Andy turn around, so
I could get the reverse angle. Fascinating. And sad.
Anyway, we (I) had more beer-running
to do, seeing the bust that was World Market. Now, while
I was there, a bright, young woman named Elizabeth iterated
what I was already noting; their selection was less
than stellar. “But,” she said, “you can find much better
beer in the coolers and shelves at both Central Market
and Whole Foods.” As a matter of fact, Elizabeth will
now be our official “Dallas Correspondent.” Welcome
aboard, Liz!
Well, I was planning to hit them anyway,
but to hear my suspicions affirmed was very reassuring.
After a brief conversation and an exchange of cards,
I was off. Not having bought a thing, since I needed
to save my money for the real deals. So, off we went.
According to Elizabeth, as soon as
I’d enter the Central Market, I’d see the beer cases
near the doors, allowing for easy entrance and exiting,
should I be disappointed again. I didn’t…probably my
fault, knowing my sense of direction. But, after winding
though and finding them, I wasn’t disappointed.
Imagine a cold case as long as that
in any supermarket. Now, imagine that case filled with
nothing but world-class beer. This was fairly impressive.
Now, before consulting Ian Gutierrez, the store’s beer
guru, I settled in front of the Stone bottles. While
they didn’t have many varieties, they did have Arrogant
Bastard and Stone IPA. Unfortunately, these are the
only two available in this market…a real stumbling block,
keeping Dallas from being a true beer Mecca. But the
prices were good; $3.69 per bomber…a solid dollar less
than Chattanooga.
After a quick inquiry from Ian, I was
led to several spots along the cold-beer wall. Knowing
I was looking for barleywines and Imperial Stouts, he
brought me to an area containing North Coast’s wares.
While they had Old Rasputin, I brushed that aside to
grab three four-packs of 2002 Old Stock Ale. At $8.49
each, I considered it a find.
Just left of there was some Old Foghorn,
which I gleefully grabbed up. As it turned out, I grabbed
up all that remained…one six-pack! At $13.99, it was
about average, price-wise. At 7 ounces-per-bottle, though,
it reminded me that some breweries need to wake up and
smell the recession. C’mon, Anchor…follow Rogue’s lead
and put your premium brands into 12 ounce bottles!
Before hitting the road, Ian suggested
a few local brews that might satisfy my high-gravity
craving. One in particular caught my eye; Avery Hog
Heaven. A 9.2% ABV barleywine in 22 oz. bombers…with
flying pigs on the pink and blue label. I couldn’t resist.
Although a little expensive, at $4.49 apiece, and while
at this writing I haven’t yet tasted one, I have to
admit I’m really looking forward to sinking the pink.
Moving on.
While an impressive selection with
knowledgeable handlers, Central Market fell somewhat
short of that in the Whole Foods Market. Most of us
have been to either a Whole Foods or one of their progeny.
You know the ilk; lots of gourmet foods in aisles that
twist and turn like the plant maze in The Shining.
Admittedly, I didn’t pay much attention to either the
atmosphere or food assortment; I was on a mission.
Almost exclusively in one long, only-warm
aisle, the choices in my style range were phenomenal.
This is actually my preferred method for buying beer,
so as to not necessitate its warming and re-cooling
later. I immediately picked up the Old Rasputin I had
passed up at the Central Market. At $6.99 per four-pack,
it was a veritable steal. Think about it…less than two
bucks a beer. Also quite impressed with their Belgian
collection, I forewent their Orval and Affligem (Dubbel
and Trippel) for a couple of bottles of Kwak. Now, this
was a beer I haven’t seen in quite some time. And at
$5.99 per 750 ml, I figured I’d always be able to make
room in the old suitcase.
Gregory Schiappa is the Wine Specialist
here, but really knows his beer, and admittedly likes
to “take care of their beer geeks,” who wander in seeking
goodies. When asked about anything local, he pointed
to the upper right-hand corner of the display, where
a bunch of 12 oz., simply labeled bottles sat. I had
already grabbed a variety (pre-mixed) six-pack from
a company called Real Ale Brewing, out of Blanco,
Texas. The mix includes two each of their Full Moon
Pale Rye Ale, Rio Blanco Pale Ale and Brewhouse Brown
Ale.
The beautiful bottles in the corner
were from the same company. Sisyphus. Say it with me
now: “SI” “SY” “PHUS.” At 10.7% ABV, this behemoth was
something I had to have. I took Greg’s word that it
was worth every one of the 349 pennies it would take
to purchase one, so when he offered me a deal, I agreed
to buy several on spec. Having tried it immediately
upon arrival home, I can say that it is, indeed, worthy.
In all my years as President of Ale
Atlanta, I find it extremely unusual that this delicacy
has never come across our monthly tasting table. Whilst
I love my comrades at pints, methinks the most likely
probability is that some of the aforementioned members
are stashing and bogarting this manna for their very
own cellar collections.
Be that as it may, Greg, being the
swell guy he is, dug up a couple of bottles of ’03 Bigfoot,
at least enabling me to complete a, now, 7 year vertical.
That, along with a few, choice Belgian goblets and tasting
glasses, made this place the stop of the trip. If you’re
in the area, give Ian or Greg a call and they’ll put
aside whatever you need. Tell them Matt from Atlanta
sent you.
And while we did get to the Flying
Saucer in Addison, that’s a story for another issue.
I think I’ll let our new Dallas Correspondent handle
that honor.
Dallas Central Market
Ian Gutierrez
(214) 234-7000 x: 2251
Dallas Whole Foods
Gregory Schiappa
(214) 824-1744
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