Belgium Beer Run

Matt Simpson
Managing Editor
President, Ale Atlanta

What would you do if presented with the opportunity to travel almost anywhere in the world, within reason? Where would you go? Being lucky enough to have a girlfriend who works for Delta and loves gourmet beer, travel expense would not be the issue you may expect. Of course, some destinations would still be far too pricey and time-consuming to even consider; there were parameters, after all.

One of our stipulations was that the excursion could be no longer than an extended weekend, about four to five days in total. We didn't want to spend more than $400-600 each, total. This wouldn't be altogether difficult, given the post 9/11 travel climate of the time. And we wanted to visit a fairly exotic locale; one to which we (or at least I) had never been.

This didn't necessarily mean a tropical paradise. On the contrary, I'm a very warm-blooded person, often looking to escape the Southern heat by traveling to parts North or Northwest. I needed it to be cool, as the Southern heat of the late summer was then fully upon us.

So, where would you go? Belgium, of course! I had gotten my first passport only about a year before and was itching to use it. I even bought one of those stylish, natural leather covers to adorn my new license to the world. What better way to initiate its use, than by traveling to the place of origin for my first epiphany beer, Chimay Grande Reserve? How perfect! My first passport stamp for a lifetime of travel would be for the home of Chimay, Corsendonk, Delirium Tremens, Westvleteren and so many more that I couldn't sample them all in any 10 trips. But I'd be damned if I wasn't going to try!

As it were, my girlfriend had been to Belgium as a teen and was somewhat familiar with the lay of the land. But her agenda was altogether different from mine. Whereas her interests lied in the culture, food, fabulous architecture and rekindled memories of her youth, mine lied in the nation's beer. All else, including food, would necessarily take a back seat for me.

Now, you can't dive into a trip like this without doing a good deal of research. Well, I guess you could. It's not as though any of the above are lacking whatsoever in this beautiful country. You could simply arrive and have an amazing experience. But nonetheless, I would be doing my homework!

I started by creating a list of beers I knew I would want to sample and bring back … in quantity, if possible. So I hopped over to the friendly, neighborhood Beer Advocate site (www.beeradvocate.com) for some recommendations. In Georgia, good Belgian beers are extremely hard to procure, let alone good Belgian strong beers; although Atlanta's Dogwood's seasonal Winter Ale never fails to satisfy and for certain styles, and is truly world-class.

I knew I wanted a few triples, but was really enamored with the quadrupel and strong-ale styles. The maltiness and low hop back seem to really meld with the warming alcohol finish in the best of them. Keeping in mind those beers that I'd had either seldom or never tasted, I created this starting list:

1. Rochefort 10
2. Gulden Draak
3. Bush de Noel
4. Piraat (but only if reasonably priced, as I've had it and love it, but is occasionally available in Chattanooga, TN)
5. Westvleteren 12
6. DeDolle Stille Nacht Reserva 2000
7. Bush
8. 't Gaverhopke Bruin 12
9. 't Smisje BBBourgondier
10. 't Smisje Kerst
11. Abbaye D'Auline Triple Brune 9
12. Left blank to accommodate late entries

Now, I was fairly certain that this list would morph and change over time, so I tried to keep an open mind. And as you'll see later, it really did change a good deal. Even with the fantastic resources to which I was availed, some beers proved simply too hard to track down in our limited time. Others slipped in through trial and error tasting.

My next conversation was with my friend Dennis, who owns 5 Seasons brew pub in Sandy Springs, GA. I knew that he had been there at least once and had a true passion for Belgian beer. He had one word (or should I say name) for me: Nasser. He told me that he had become friendly with a gentleman in Brussels, who owned a gourmet beer store called Beer Mania with, arguably, the best selection of Belgian beer in the world. Since we would be staying in Brussels, I would certainly make the pilgrimage to Beer Mania.

I had also learned that a few people from the Atlanta Beer mailing list had either been to Belgium or traveled extensively for beer. Fellow beer lover, John Willett lent me his traveling beer apparatus, which would come in extremely handy later in the trip. It's actually two, old Beer of the Month shipping boxes, sealed together, fortified with newspaper and Styrofoam and strapped with cloth … well, straps. Genius.

After a few more conversations and some web searching, I was ready. Beer list, check. Belgian contact, check. Passport with cute leather holster, check. Box to hold at least one case of beer, check. The one thing I was really unsure of, though, were the rules and regulations regarding the shipment of the beer back into the US. It was obvious that at least one more conversation was needed.

Luckily, my girlfriend's coworker, Yannis, is a real jet setter. Really. He travels nearly every weekend to any corner of the Earth striking his fancy at that particular moment. He'd been to Belgium several times, as it's known to airline employees as a perfect stepping off point for European destinations. He knew the ins and outs regarding food, money exchange and even taxi and train travel. Unfortunately, however, his only advice regarding my beer shipping was to ask my flight attendant. So that's exactly what I did.

As it turns out, beer isn't considered liquor, when it comes to tax and duty payments. So while you may only be able to bring a few bottles of booze back from Europe to the US, you may bring up to $800 worth of almost anything else, provided it's legal, of course. As long as you don't exceed your flight weight limits and declare under $800, a couple of cases of Belgian beer could return with you unaccosted. Joy!

We decided that with only four days to spend, we would divide our journey among the four cities we wanted see most: Brussels, Brugge, Antwerp and Ghent, in that order. We would stay at the Sofitel, in the heart of Brussels, within walking distance of the square and either of both main train stations. Our average train ride between cities was about 10-12 euro, or about $12-15 US.

The hotel interior was rather pretty and rang with old-world charm. But one of the things we learned early in our visit is that businesses in Europe will take advantage of a hostage audience. The daily breakfast at the hotel was about $35, while a baguette sandwich to go, up the street, cost about $4-6! That said, the same baguette, sitting at a table in the back of the café would cost $6-8, as they charge extra for silverware, water, linens and the ever-inclusive tip.

It seems as though Americans are the only big tippers in Europe, as tips are always included in all eating and drinking service. We soon found out that a 10% tip here would be considered quite generous. But with this service structure comes a certain laissez faire service attitude. In our experience, most servers were friendly, but in no certain rush to provide our fare. Still, most service was prompt and gracious.

Since we decided our first day would be spent exploring Brussels, I knew where I needed to go first … Beer Mania. Having the address and rough directions wasn't really enough, though, considering we had basically just stepped foot in this land for the first time. We started by taking the subway. We then hoofed it to the approximate area in which we thought it was and started searching.

After asking a few people in our coarse French and still not being able to find it after what seemed about 3 miles, we decided to go one more block, before turning back. Just then, I heard from behind me: "Hey Matt, that looks like a beer store over there, but it looks closed." An extremely nondescript store along a connected row of business buildings read "400 Bieres Artisanales, Belges, Tel: (02) 512.17.88". It did indeed look closed, but having come all this way and nearly giving up, we had to look. Lo and behold, the door was open!

The window was filled with magnums and jeroboams of fabulous beers (Duvel, Piraat, etc.) as well as beautiful glassware and other Belgian beer gift ideas (the holidays were approaching, after all). Simply walking into the store was an invitation in itself. It was lined with natural wood floors and shelf after shelf of beers by the hundreds, giving the entire store a warm, amber glow. In front of me was a bald gent, and I asked if his name was Nasser, to which he replies "yes." He greeted me with a warm handshake and I explained from where we'd come and who had sent me. He replied that any beer-loving friend of Dennis would be a friend of his and would have to join him for a beer before we left.

To say that Nasser is a gracious host is an acute understatement. He showed a kindness, benevolence and consideration that are usually reserved for old friends. But after speaking with several people, it became apparent that this is simply his nature. His home is your home. John Guest was a friendly patron from England, who makes regular trips to Beer Mania when possible. That day, he was there with his family and agreed that Nasser's warmth and thoughtfulness were one of the reasons he kept coming back.

But so was the beer. He's not kidding when he advertises over 400 beers. The store was literally lined with shelves, from floor to ceiling, accommodating nothing but separate bottles of beer. The large bottles and gift items stood on special cabinetry constructed right up the middle of the store. This is nothing to say of the shelves on the other side with hundreds of different glasses, each one printed with the logo of its intended beer. As many people know, every beer has its own glass in Belgium. But it's not restricted to style, almost every brewery has it's own glassware!

After speaking briefly with Nasser, I decided it was time to have a look around in earnest. I assured him that while I wouldn't be buying today, I'd be back before our trip's end to fill my box and padded carry bag. I immediately found a few from my list, but also started taking mental notes about replacements and substitutions. For instance, I realized that I had had Bush before, after seeing the label. And while it was a good beer, I found it plain and lacking any real depth or character. It was really simply a high-alcohol brew that I would much rather substitute for something like Westvleteren 12. Of which, Nasser had plenty!

I'd heard about this beer's rarity and tried it once, with great satisfaction. So when I saw that he had several cases of it, I automatically set aside space on my list for more than a few bottles. And with a bottle price of about $4 US, it would be well worth the space. We left Beer Mania to begin our foot tour of Brussels. We knew that the city square was a must-see, so that's exactly where we headed next.

Aside from the astounding architecture, little bistros were ever present. At one of these little cafés we could sit outside under a sun-umbrella, order a bite to eat and have the first of our beer samples. I learned that there are a many of these cafés throughout Belgium and what most have in common is their lack of beer selection. While they may have great cuisine and some good beer, they are often limited to what amount to the "macro" beers of Belgium: Hoegaarden, Stella Artois, Leffe and Jupiler.

And while there is nothing inherently wrong with these beers, they are all very common in the US and considered akin to Bud, Miller or Coors in Belgium. I had many more complex and rare beers to fit into my stay. For those, I found, we would have to seek out the real beer establishments, of which there are only a few in each city. So after an afternoon on the square, eating, photographing the incredible scenery and learning a little European history, it was time to find one of these places.

We were told that directly across from the Mannequin Piz (an actual small, bronze statue of a little Victorian boy peeing into a pool) was a beer bar, called Notre Carte, known for its selection. I knew as soon as I saw the 3-page list that we had the right place. Our tasting began with three triples: Brugse tripel, Rochefort 10 and Westmalle. All were rich and yeasty, as expected. The Rochefort, though, was a little stronger than I'd expected, at 11% a.b.v. But who's complaining?

The next beer was one of only two I ordered twice during the entire trip, because of its absolute excellence. The fellows at the next table joined us after some time for some interesting conversation. One of them was drinking a beer, and it wasn't on the list.

Malheur 12 came in a slight (33 cl) art-painted bottle with a big "MM" on the front. As with all beers I've never had, I took a big whiff from the glass, only to be taken aback. Could it be cascade hops I smelled? Wasn't this a uniquely American hop, used in West Coast styles of IPAs and barleywines? It was cascade hops, and for a Belgian strong ale, seemed incredibly interesting, almost to the point of being out of place. I later asked Nasser about this and he informed me that Belgian brewers are using cascade hops in more and more of their brews, as they become more enamored with American beer styles.

But after one sip, I knew it was a genius that had created this masterpiece, not a crackpot. The malt came through immediately, with hints of plum and raisin. The hops merely sat in back as an accompaniment, fulfilling their duty through aroma and background flavor. The high alcohol (12% a.b.v) was barely noticeable, as it was melded so perfectly. This is one I had to add to the list for take-home. Another? Sure. After paying our tab, which was a quite reasonable 16 euro (about $18-20), it was back to the room to sleep it off.

After a pleasant train ride into Brugge the next day, we marched off to their town center. By far, this was the most rural city in our stay. The streets and walks along our route were all cobblestone, with colorful row houses with painted windows and garages lining them. And again, without going into great detail about our day examining the cathedrals, small shops and canals, suffice it to say that the view was breathtaking. But, since this article is beer-centric, I'll try to stick to the theme.

Some time during the afternoon, quite unknowingly and without asking a sole person, we happened upon t'Brugs Beertjes. I later found out that this is actually one of those destination beer bars sought out by beer lovers and probably serves the best selection of bottled beer in Brugge. It's actually a Dutch establishment, so after perusing the book-like menu and attempting to order beer in French, I was politely told that they speak Flemish in this bar and understand English well. That was a relief.

Our helpful, if serious, server/bartender did his best to accommodate my strong beer cravings. He first recommended the only other beer I would order twice during the stay: Optimo Bruno. This Flemish masterpiece is a Belgian Brune, dark and strong, with lots of malt and slightly more carbonation than others I'd had. Again, sweet plum and some spice were present, with a warming alcohol finish. The fairly light colored head shielded this beer's big, full body. Deelish.

Since my girlfriend was in the mood for a tripel, I next took the opportunity to sample Malheur's 10 and ordered her a Piraat, so she may see what perfection for the style is. The Malheur was as I expected, full and yeasty, without being too sweet. And while excellent, it didn't show the innovation and originality of the 12. Still, it is an incredible tripel. All told, our bill came to 12.35euro (about $15 US). Considering most of the tip was included, I was extremely pleased.

The next day was Antwerp. Exiting the quite noble train station, we were dropped directly into what must be the metropolitan Mecca of Belgium. Unlike even Brussels, which is home to the European Union, this city was very urban. The hustle and bustle of the street level almost reminded me of New York. And the structural design of the city was dissimilar to the other cities thus far. Where they had a rural, Victorian feel, Antwerp was more urbane … spit and polish. It's reputation as one of the diamond capitals of the world seemed well founded.

But even with all its municipality, it just wouldn't be a proper Belgian city without a square. So that's where we headed. We grabbed a quick meal at a little deli right off the square. Some fresh seafood paella called our names, as did a little park bench. After lunch, we walked around the square and surrounding area, where we took in the sights, among them the "Torture Museum." A picture of the exterior would have to suffice.

It wasn't long until we needed to take a load off. God bless those little Antwerpen cafés. I think I enjoyed their senses of humor more than the beer this day, as I can't remember what I drank, but some of the signs outside were funny as hell. "Our steak is without mistake de beste of the streak," and "Typical Antwerp food brings you in a good mood," were my favorites. I actually laughed aloud.

And of course, there were the diamonds. The actual diamond district was more surreal than expected. Imagine a long row of shops. No … longer. Now double it. Now make them all the same. Exactly the same. That was it; one long row of about 150 stores, each about the size of a modest apartment kitchen, and all with the most gaudy gold and diamond jewelry in their windows. What sets one apart from another, I may never know, but it went on for about three or four city blocks. Very impressive, in its own garish way.

Our last day was spent in Ghent. Very similar to Brugge, in that it was also very rural and quiet, with tiny shops and a square, we decided to relax some this day. This would be our "dessert" day. Having tried a multitude of different beers (some of which I can't even remember), we decided to turn to the sweeter side of Belgian ales…a couple of lambics. We sat down under an umbrella and ordered Liefman's Kriek and Frambois. And although available here, we wanted to try them fresh and "au natural." They didn't disappoint. They were extremely fruity and sweet, with a yeasty tang that carried the flavor through the finish. Tasty. And the paper-covered bottles were cool too.

Now back in Brussels, later that day, I had to make my return trip to Beer Mania. Nasser welcomed me again and helped me set to work on completing and fulfilling my now-finished list. This was my final plunder:

1. Bush de Noel / 3 bottles
2. de Dolle Stille Nacht / 2 bottles
3. de Dolle Dulle Teve (Mad Bitch) / 2 bottles
4. Gulden Draak / 4 bottles
5. Hercule Stout / 2 bottles
6. Malheur 10 / 4 bottles
7. Malheur 12 / 5 bottles
8. Optimo Bruno / 8 bottles (I actually found this at a grocery store for about $1.50 a bottle, in 4-packs!)
9. Westmalle tripel / 4 bottles
10. Westvleteran 12 / 8 bottles
11. Abbaye d'Aulne Triple Brune 9 / 1 bottle
12. Brune Rochefortoise / 1 bottle
13. One or two more that I'm sure I drank my first week back, but can't remember now. And all this for about $100!

Nasser helped me pack up my bag and box for travel and with my mission complete, it was time for us to break beer together. Unfortunately, Nasser had a cold and couldn't drink, but that didn't stop us from partaking of one last embibement. And luckily, all's well that ended well. While the customs process was long, I had no hassles. I guess they were more interested in finding drugs and bombs than beer and Cuban cigars. Oops…did I say that?